Hints on Buying Second Hand 'OO' Locomotives
If you want a pristine collector's item, second hand
is probably not for you. Some second hand locomotives
and multiple units can be in excellent condition, but
some can be good for little other than spares. The usual
state is somewhere in between. Particularly useful for
the kit builder or ready-to-run modifier are old locomotives,
possibly with paint or body damage that can be purchased
for a very low price, but can still be improved to make
good models. Typical diesel and electric examples are
the Airfix class 31, the Hornby class 25 'rat', class
29, class 35 'Hymek' and class 86, the Lima GWR railcar,
class 08 'gronk', class 33 'Crompton', class 42 'Warship',
class 52 'Western', class 55 'Deltic' and class 87 or
Mainline/Replica Railways class 56 'grid'. Good steam
examples are the Airfix GWR 6100 class prairie tank
2-6-2T and the Lima GWR 4575 class prairie tank 2-6-2T.
1. A good place to buy second-hand is a swap-meet or
toy-and-train fair.
Prices are excellent as the stall-holders
often do not have shops to run. The items on offer are
usually in good-to-average condition and can be the
basis of very satisfactory models. I routinely buy locomotives
after the most cursory of inspections, sometimes not
even opening their boxes and have had very few problems,
but you might like to check more carefully before you
spend your hard-earned cash. Sellers are usually very
keen to point out why the price is so good anyway, for
the sake of preserving their reputations. Store-holders
are often open to reasonable offers, especially if they
are about to pack up for the day. It is also easier
to negotiate a better price if you spend a lot of money
at one stand. It can be a good idea to strike up a relationship
with regular store-holders as they will be keen to both
look out for the kind of things you might want to purchase
and offer a discount on their prices without you asking.
Always look round all the stalls before you buy anything
as prices can vary dramatically even between neighbouring
dealers in the same hall. You can buy items even more
cheaply from jumble sales, but the condition can be
very variable.
2. Keep a good stock of spares.
Any opportunity to
collect spares at a reasonable price should be taken
by the committed second-hand buyer. Obvious parts that
can go missing or get damaged are things such as buffers
and couplings, which tend to bear the brunt of impact
damage. Some items can be viewed as 'consumable' and
so should also be kept in stock, such as traction tyres
and motor brushes and springs. It also never hurts to
keep a supply of wheels, gears, axles and even motors
and complete power bogies. Motors and power bogies are
also very useful for powering kit-built projects or
double-motoring older ready-to-run locomotives. Good
prices can be negotiated for locomotives if parts are
missing.
3. Keep it simple.
Between them, Hornby and Lima, for
example, have released a good range of products and
if you keep the number of makes you own down to a minimum,
you will not need as many spare parts to keep it all
running. Steer clear from the very old, such as Tri-ang
or Trix, and the exotic such as Fleischmann as only
cannibalization will keep everything working due to
a lack of spare parts.
4. Be selective.
Mainline 'Warship' Class 42 diesels
are very accurate models, but Lima ones are more robust,
will pull a longer train and can be detailed up to the
same standard as the Mainline ones. Jouef class 40s
look alright, but are over-scale width and it is nearly
impossible to find spares for a long-obsolete model,
whereas Lima made a class 40 that uses fairly standard
parts and is an accurate model. Mainline and Replica
class 45 'Peaks' are a good price and can be the basis
of good models, but the mechanisms are poor, the noses
too low and the buffer beams are incorrectly attached
to the bodies. Maybe a more expensive 'late' Bachmann
'Peak' (after they reworked the body) would be a better
buy as they are accurate models and very smooth and
powerful.
JT. |
